Androgynous Fashion Through the Years
While at Bedales, I researched as part of the Badley Project, one of my favourite subjects ; Androgynous Fashion! The history, the inspiration and the lack of it! Thought I would share.
Androgynous Fashion: How has it become mainstream?
Smashing the gender lines wasn't always as normal as it is today. Back in the 1930s and 40s, when Hollywood starlets such as Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn first pulled on wide-legged trousers and mannish button-down shirts, the look was considered scandalous and decidedly unfeminine. Fast forward to the 1990s, and androgyny officially became mainstream, thanks to the rise of feminism and pioneering designers such as Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. In the first decade of the new millennium, girls dressing like boys became a recurring fashion trend, as women continued to "borrow" items from men's wardrobes, lending to the popularity of items such as "boyfriend jeans" and "boyfriend jackets".
At the opposite end of the spectrum, designers such as Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme redefined traditional notions of masculinity by creating a new silhouette for men consisting of slim-cut blazers and skinny trousers. Surprisingly, the jackets became a cult favourite among women who claimed that they fitted better. Today, fashion is more interchangeable than ever, with men dressing in womenswear and vice versa. As such, a new category has emerged as many designers build entire brands based around the concept of unisex garments. Unlike the androgynous look, which sees both sexes mix and match popular items from each other's wardrobes, unisex dressing doesn't discriminate, and eliminates gender norms. According to buyers, the concept has become more popular thanks to the re-emergence of minimalism on the fashion scene. "For sure, the minimal trend has led to the rise of more unisex silhouettes. And after a few seasons of prints and feminine touches, it's time to go back to basics, including boxy, less fitted and simpler cuts.
This generation is more open minded and not concerned so much about gender. Today, both sexes will buy items they like, regardless of whether they are categorised as men's or women’s, citing brands such as Céline, Dries Van Noten and Thom Browne as cross-gender favourites. What makes unisex fashion so appealing and relevant today is that it eschews trends completely. Instead, it is used as a means of self-expression and encourages the wearer to experiment with their personal style without being bound by the constraints of gender. It's also relatively easy to wear.
Usually, unisex brands will do a wider size range in order to accommodate women's and men's sizes. In general, it is easier for customers to wear, as the bulk of the merchandise are usually less fitted, and require a less than perfect body shape. The biggest proponent of unisex fashion in the industry is Paris-based Canadian designer Rad Hourani, who founded the first unisex brand back in 2007.
Another following suit is British designer J.W. Anderson. Anderson's collections are very much rooted in menswear - he started designing men's first in 2008, but launched a women's collection in 2010. In all his collections, the line between menswear and womenswear is never defined, because both feature conceptual, avant-garde pieces that can be worn by both sexes.