Customisation is always cool. It shows individualism, a need to be different and originality. Recently I have been looking at the huge amount of customisation and I wonder ; Is this a reaction to our digital world? From frayed bags from Jacquemus to Jeremy Scott or Burberry’s doodled suits and macs. We most definitely seem have a desire to lose perfection. Of course this has all inspired me and this time next week I will be drawing on my second hand suit that will arrive from eBay! Ok, maybe my mother will be helping me with that, but customisation is definitely being booked in. Here are some of the gems driving me nuts!
Interviews on Individualism
David Thomas is in my opinion the most stylish and inspiring Stylists today. From the UK, David has worked across all genres, from the inspired and iconic 1980’s with Judy Blame to the elite of Hollywood. David’s work is in every best dressed list, and an icon to fashion addicts like me.
I am incredibly grateful that David took the time out his hectic day to answer my questions. Thank you! x
David Thomas
Why do you think that in today's society it has become so conservative and anti-individualism?
I attribute that mostly to the current political climate, the rise of the far right across parts of Europe, the spread Islamic Fundamentalism in other parts of the world and Trump's America. People are frightened to be, or appear to be different.
Do you think that eventually being androgynous and wearing the opposite sex's clothing will be completely acceptable?
You do see more fashion labels catering for both men and women with unsex collections and the opening of "Agender" in Selfridges in 2105, a concept space pioneering a genderless shopping experience selling fashion, accessories and beauty products, was I think a taste of things to come. There is no men's or women's section, and that's quite revolutionary.
and others. But now we have high profile gender fluid models such Andrej Pejic and and Ruby Rose and celebrities such as Miley Cyrus and Tilda Swinton, Eddie Izzard and Troye Sivan redefining gender norms with the way they dress. We've even seen Hip-hop star Kanye West in a kilt. So you could argue that androgyny is more prevalent in fashion and mainstream culture now that ever before, it's just not making headlines.
Do you try and incorporate androgyny and gender fluidity in your works? If so how?
I have always played with the idea of androgyny in my work. My first job was styling Lisa Stansfield in 1989 and her look of a baker boy cap, tightly cropped hair, jeans and a tailored jacket was very different to what people expected of their female pop starts at the time. In 1991 I dressed Kylie Minogue in a suit and tie for her video "What do I have to do", and at The Grammies in 2003 I put Sting in a Jean Paul Gautier kilt for the red carpet. Another moment was getting Canadian singer KD Lang to model the latest Men's Fashion in Vogue Home International in the 90's. The look was very young Elvis, rockabilly style. 60's icon Anita Pallenberg dressed as an Italian mobster for Vogue Home was another. Working with Boy George, (the original "Gender Bender" as he was named by the press) over the last 30, years gave me plenty of opportunity to play around with gender norms.
What is the no-no in the industry with androgynous fashion and clothing? What is going to far?
I don't really feel you can go to far. I see the role of Art and Fashion is to to push the boundaries of what is deemed acceptable.
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Do you think that in today's society it has become so conservative and anti-individualism?
Graeme Armour
Graeme is a fashion designer and creative director, who has worked on his own collections as well as with Alexander McQueen, Adidas and MaxMara among many others.
No I don’t agree with this, whether you express yourself in a avant garde or simpler way this expression is an individuals choice made by the person/consumer that reflects their life circumstances and vision of the world. There are periods in history that are evidently more colourful that we instantly relate to, but if you take a brand like Balenciaga today their actual clothing items are modest and "conservative" it's just styled and put together in a way they looks modern and new. Maybe "conservative individualism" is the new thing and we just don't know it...... ?
Peter Aluuan:
There is currently a backlash as we have progressed so much in the past 10 years. I don’t think our societies have become conservative, the opposite, our societies are more open than ever with subjects being discussed that have not been broached before. Unfortunately the ones who are not progressive sometime shout the loudest. Let’s not let them be the ones being heard the most.
Kabira:
I do not agree with this statement at all, perhaps I live in a very different bubble, but I think today is the most open stylistically and all lines are blurred. Just look at the new river island campaign - a high street brand showing genderless people and trans - come on?!? When has that happened before?